Dermocosmetic properties of bioproducts from Sargassum macroalgae: chemical aspects, challenges, and opportunities

Move over, land plants—there's a new superstar in the cosmetics aisle, and it's been washing up on shores for millennia. Brown algae of the genus Sargassum are turning out to be a treasure trove of skin-loving compounds that could redefine natural skincare.

The cosmetics industry is booming, and its hunger for new active ingredients is driving a wave of interest toward the ocean. Among the most promising candidates is Sargassum, a cosmopolitan brown alga with a diverse chemical arsenal. A new review, covering 17 species studied between 2020 and 2024, highlights the growing focus on its antioxidant and photoprotective properties—natural shields against skin aging and UV damage.

But what makes Sargassum so special? It's the cocktail of bioactive molecules: polysaccharides like alginate and fucoidan, phenolic compounds such as phlorotannins and phenylpropanoids, and terpenoids including diterpenoids and saponins. To extract these gems without harming the environment, researchers are turning to green techniques like ultrasound-, enzyme-, and microwave-assisted extraction. These methods are not only eco-friendly but also efficient in preserving the delicate chemistry of the algae.

Beyond the lab, the review tackles the bigger picture. It discusses bioprospecting—the hunt for new valuable compounds—and the potential of biorefineries to turn seaweed into a sustainable source of cosmetic ingredients. Yet, challenges remain: quality control of raw materials, seasonal variations in seaweed composition, and the complex web of regulations. The authors argue that overcoming these hurdles is key to unlocking the full potential of Sargassum in the cosmetics sector.

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