Green Approach for Rosa damascena Mill. Petal Extract: Insights into Phytochemical Composition, Anti-Aging Potential, and Stability

Forget harsh chemicals—the secret to youthful skin might be hiding in a rose petal, extracted with nothing but water.

Rosa damascena, the beloved damask rose, has long been a star in skincare. Now, scientists have found a greener way to unlock its power, swapping organic solvents for plain deionized water. Using five eco-friendly methods—infusion, microwave, ultrasound, pulsed electric fields, and micellar extraction—they compared how well each pulled out the flower's bioactive compounds.

The microwave-assisted extraction (MAE) emerged as the champion, yielding the highest concentration of actives. Corilagin led the pack, followed by cyanidin-3,5-O-diglucoside, gallic acid, ellagic acid, L-ascorbic acid, and rutin. This extract didn't just match commercial standards; it outperformed both the positive controls (like L-ascorbic acid and kojic acid) and the individual compounds in antioxidant, whitening, and anti-aging tests.

But there's a catch: the extract is sensitive. Its physical, chemical, and biological stability wavered with pH, temperature, and light. To keep the rose's magic intact, formulators must shield it from light and keep temperatures at or below 30°C. This study paves the way for sustainable, effective skincare—if we handle the petals with care.

Key Points

• Microwave extraction yields highest bioactive concentration.
• Corilagin is the most abundant compound in the extract.
• Stability requires protection from light and temperatures ≤30°C.